Is December the season of deep-rest or of the de-pressed? Fergus Drennan explores winter foraging and herbal medicine in December.
I love December and her close siblings January and February, but it hasn’t always been so. From my late teens until ten years ago, I used to dread the coming of the dark, short and cold days. Usually, from about mid-November, and remaining stuck until April, a heavy depression would descend like a putrescent and stagnant sediment of accumulating weighty mud, clinging to heart, mind and soul, unable to be washed away.
According to humoral medicine, winter is governed by the earth element, energetically cold and dry. Earth, associated with heaviness and stagnation, corresponds to the melancholic humour. An excess of the melancholic humour can manifest as brain fog, sadness, pessimism, and physically as tiredness, sluggish digestion, and aching joints. In such cases, humoral medicine recommends foods and herbs that are light, warming, bitter, and cleansing for a clearing and moving effect (1,2). Other herbal allies sought to raise spirits in winter may include those with nervine, thymoleptic and antidepressant virtues, such as St John’s wort, lemon balm, passionflower, rose, tulsi, and limeflower (linden).
St John’s wort is a herb especially indicated for invernal melancholy, formally known as seasonal affective disorder. Its action is perhaps most beautifully told not by its antidepressant effects described by its pharmacology, but by the doctrine of signatures — a theory dating back to Ancient Greece that postulates that how a herb affects the body is suggested by its characteristics; appearance, colour or habitat. For St John’s wort, its clue is in its leaves. Held up to the sky, you’ll see the light shining through tiny spots (owing to droplets of the oil, hypericin) — a trait denoted by the herb’s species name perforatum. Here the doctrine of signatures tells of the leaves reflecting its action, letting in the light. Intriguingly, St John’s wort is also cautioned with causing photosensitivity, which perhaps further suggests an interaction with our relationship with light. What’s more, is that St John’s day, June 24th, when the herb first blooms and traditionally the day of its harvest, almost falls on the summer solstice. It’s as if it captures the light when it is most abundant and stores it, to illuminate our way through winter’s darkness.
Beyond herbs, I found remedy through actively and consciously deciding to change my mindset. Instead of resisting the cold, I would embrace it (I now swim outside every day throughout the winter), instead of bemoaning the loss of light, I came to embrace the deep rest afforded by nature’s seasonal rhythms, taking time to read, reflect, sleep early, get up late. In this way, the state of being depressed was transformed into the nurturing calm of deep rest.
Deep rest, of course, does not mean there is no (ad)venturing outside in these colder and darker months, for although there are less medicinal herbs to winter foraging, it is still great to get some daily exercise and embrace the light of these shorter days. And, of course, each season always has a unique range of foraging possibilities for both food and medicine.
Firstly, a plant that epitomises the dual aspects of the coming winter solstice period, the approaching of the longest night, and yet, the slow and steady return of light in days still cold, but longer and lighter at least. This plant is one that stands resiliently evergreen throughout the winter, and that delights us with a stunning and simultaneous display of white mini lantern shaped flowers and deep red and succulent fruit throughout November and December.
Strawberry tree (Arbutus unedo)
The tree is native to much of Southern Europe, North Africa, and the South West of Ireland. In the UK it is widely planted in parks and gardens. The tree’s leaves are astringent, diuretic, a urinary antiseptic and general antiseptic, antirheumatic, tonic, antihypertensive, and have been used in traditional and folk medicine for these purposes (3,4,5). Due to these qualities (indeed, I extensively use their astringent tannins for leather making), it is the fruits that interest me most. Their round strawberry-like appearance, with granular flesh, hides an inner orange succulence with flavours of pear and mango. When fully ripe, the sugar content can be as high as 40%. The fruit is also high in antioxidants and vitamins, including vitamin C, beta carotene, niacin, tocopherols, as well as organic acids that are precursors to omega-3 and omega-6 fatty acids (6,7).
Since August, and as an on-going project continuing for a year, I have been and will be gathering 2–4 different edible wild or ornamental plant ingredients each month in order to create a 100% foraged and predominantly wild food-based Christmas pudding. It will be a celebration of nature’s yearly and seasonal abundance. One ingredient for December has been perfectly ripe strawberry tree fruit turned into fruit leather then chopped up fine as part of a dried mixed fruit combination. The whole fruit can be eaten, but the separated pulp itself is utterly delicious and wonderful eaten fresh either on its own or as part of a dessert.
To create this pulp for immediate use or for fruit leather making,
- Place the washed fruit in a bowl and thoroughly mash with a potato masher.
- Line a 2nd bowl with a very fine mesh nylon cloth or piece of muslin.
- Tip in the mashed fruit, bundle und twist up the cloth and squeeze hard. All the orange pulp will ooze out looking like a thick mango puree, leaving the gritty outer parts of the fruit’s skin behind in the cloth.
- Enjoy the silky smooth fruit pulp as it is, perhaps with yoghurt, on a cake or in pancakes, or spread out thinly on a nonstick sheet and dry in a food dehydrator until all the water is removed. Delicious! (8)
Herbalism, for me, is about gathering herbs for health and wellbeing, doing what makes you happy. And that may not involve consuming the gathered herbs at all, instead using them for other magical transformations. The large arbutus tree from which I gathered these fruits overhangs a tennis court where I play regularly. It creates the unusual situation, in November and December, of allowing me to literally (I bring a broom!) sweep up kilos of freshly fallen flowers in no time at all. These are excellent for tanning extraction for leather work. For me, that means transforming sushi waste salmon skins into beautiful, patterned leather for book covers, bags, boots, hats, and other garments of clothing. In the process I get to know Arbutus a little more, increasing my connection, understanding and respect for this marvellous being. While collecting the flowers these past years I have delighted at the huge numbers of bumble bees visiting for this early winter forage. Some lie seemingly gorged and drunk among the fallen flowers. I carefully set them aside on the grass before sweeping them up.
There are a few honey bees foraging too but have wondered why so many bumble bees? Perhaps, it’s due to the medicinal properties of the nectar, owing to the isoprenoid unedone that protects them against a common parasite Crithidia bombi. This parasite poses a great threat to bumblebee populations and its impact has already been deleterious. When ingested by the bee, the active isoprenoid constituent is initially glycosylated into an inert form which is then transformed again by the microbiome into its active form right where the bee is most vulnerable to the the parasite in the hindgut, suggestive of the microbiome’s involvement in the antiparasitic action of the nectar (9).
Jelly ear fungi (Auricularia auricula-judae)
The beauty of jelly ear, sometimes referred to as wood ear mushroom, is that they are very common and can be found all year round. In the heat and at the height of summer they can be found completely desiccated on fallen branches or trunks of elder or on the dead or dying parts of living standing elder trees. When the rain comes to rehydrate them, they carry on growing. In winter, their impressive resilience is demonstrated by their ability to withstand freezing. Snow can be on the ground, ponds fully iced over, and even the fungi themselves can be covered in a frozen outer coat of ice. But if you find one in this condition and gently manipulate it, the ice cracks to reveal a soft unfrozen mushroom beneath.
Jelly ear fungi consist of approximately 12.5% protein including almost all essential amino acids, 1.7% fat, and 66% carbohydrates, as well as a range of vitamins, pigments and trace elements (10). Many studies have confirmed that polysaccharides from Auricularia auricula can regulate intestinal flora, enhance immune regulation, slow down the aging process, resist radiation, reduce blood lipids, and combat viruses (11). Therefore, it is an excellent functional food. It is also valued for improving blood fluidity which can reduce the risk of thrombosis and promote blood circulation. Due to this quality, care should be taken if already taking blood thinning medication.
Jelly ear can be gathered in large quantities, washed, dried and powdered during winter foraging, then taken on their own or with other medicinal mushroom powders you might have, all mixed together — turkey tail, birch polypore, and reishi, for example. Alternatively, you can simply eat it regularly in soups and stews or (carefully) shallow fried — they have a tendency to leap out of the pan unless you cover them with a lid or splash guard. They are incredibly versatile in the kitchen, absorbing and taking on the flavours of what you cook them in. While avoiding horror stories, they really do offer the opportunity to get creative.
On workshops with children, I have rehydrated a batch of cleaned jelly ear fungi, half of them in double concentrated orange juice and the other half in blackcurrant cordial, then dipped them in dark chocolate and set aside to firm up. Before going into the woods I revealed a beautiful box full of chocolates. Together we examined their intriguing shape and texture, slowly eating them. These grew somewhere in the woods I said. The children rushed in. With eager yelps of excitement and questioning, “Is this it!?”, “Is this it!?”, many jelly ear were found. After this wonderful experience I introduced adult versions of these on all my workshops, substituting sloe gin, cherry brandy, and other homemade liqueurs instead of orange juice and black current cordial. The alcohol infused chocolate jelly ear was born.
Stuffed jelly ear tempura
These days I eschew sugar and alcohol altogether so work with savoury recipes. I highly recommend stuffed jelly ear tempura.
Ingredients
You need to find perfect unbroken and succulent specimens of jelly ear fungi roughly the size of an egg (from a two-dimensional perspective). This isn’t hard if you’re out gathering lots anyway.
Method
- Hold on the end of your index finger as if it’s a bit of floppy leather and pinch between that finger and your thumb, simultaneously rubbing and making small expanding circles with your thumb. This breaks up the inner gel inside the mushroom allowing the back and front layers to be pulled apart.
- Once you’ve carefully rubbed over the whole mushroom you can carefully pull both sides apart while keeping their edges intact, a bit like an empty pillow case or deflated balloon.
- Make a small incision in the side just big enough to partially insert the end of a piping bag attachment.
- Now make up a filling. It could be curried mince or herby silken tofu or cream cheese with herbs and perhaps other finely chopped or powdered mushrooms.
- Pipe into the jelly ear, dip in tempura batter, and deep fry until golden brown.
- Season and serve on a bed of wild greens.
References
- Hedley C, Shaw N. Plant Medicine. Aeon Books; 2023.
- Taylor S. The Humoral Herbal. Aeon Books; 2021.
- Bonet, M. Angels; Vallès, Joan (2002). “Use of non-crop food vascular plants in Montseny biosphere reserve (Catalonia, Iberian Peninsula)”. International Journal of Food Sciences and Nutrition. 53 (3): 225–248.
- Tuberoso, CI; Bifulco, E; Caboni, P; Cottiglia, F; Cabras, P; Floris, I (2010). “Floral markers of strawberry tree (Arbutus unedo L.) honey”. J Agric Food Chem. 58 (1): 384–9.
- Mariotto, S.; Ciampa, A. R.; de Prati, A. Carcereri; Darra, E.; Vincenzi, S.; Sega, M.; Cavalieri, E.; Shoji, K.; Suzuki, H. (2008). “Aqueous extract of Arbutus unedo inhibits STAT1 activation in human breast cancer cell line MDA-MB-231 and human fibroblasts through SHP2 activation”. Medicinal Chemistry. 4 (3): 219–228.
- Alarcão-E-Silva, M. L. C. M. M.; Leitão, A. E. B.; Azinheira, H. G.; Leitão, M. C. A. (1 February 2001). “The Arbutus Berry: Studies on its Color and Chemical Characteristics at Two Mature Stages”. Journal of Food Composition and Analysis. 14 (1): 27–35. doi:10.1006/jfca.2000.0962. Arbutus berry appears to be a good source of vitamins, namely niacin, ascorbic acid and β -carotene (content of 9.1, 346.3 and 70.9 mg/100 g, respectively), organic acids (nearly 9%), total sugars (c. 42%) and tannins (1.75 mg g−1).
- Barros, Lillian; Carvalho, Ana Maria; Morais, Jorge Sá; Ferreira, Isabel C. F. R. (1 May 2010). “Strawberry-tree, blackthorn and rose fruits: Detailed characterisation in nutrients and phytochemicals with antioxidant properties”. Food Chemistry. 120 (1): 247–254
- https://www.instagram.com/p/DCjwBlfI0cs/?hl=en
- Koch H, Welcome V, Kendal-Smith A, et al. Host and gut microbiome modulate the antiparasitic activity of nectar metabolites in a bumblebee pollinator. Philosophical Transactions of the Royal Society B. 2022;377(1853). doi:https://doi.org/10.1098/rstb.2021.0162
- Kadnikova IA, Costa R, Kalenik TK, Guruleva ON, Yanguo S. Chemical Composition and Nutritional Value of the Mushroom Auricularia auricula-judae. Journal of Food and Nutrition Research. 2015;3(8):478-482. doi:https://doi.org/10.12691/jfnr-3-8-1
- Yu T, Wu Q, Liang B, Wang J, Wu D, Shang X. The Current State and Future Prospects of Auricularia auricula’s Polysaccharide Processing Technology Portfolio. Molecules. 2023;28(2):582. Published 2023 Jan 6. doi:10.3390/molecules28020582
